How To Find Aftermarket Rim Bore Size

woodstock827 [OP]: Sr. Member; Dec two, 2005; 946 posts; 11 upvotes; Markham

November 2nd, 2008 7:18 pm

rims eye bore size

While I was getting winter tires for my '04 Elantra, the guy at the tires shop told me that the middle diameter for my car is bigger than normal cars and the ane he reserved for me didn't fit. And so he put the rubber on my original rims instead because we didn't desire to wait any longer (and the tires were quite worn already). I thought all rims with 4x114.iii bolt pattern are the aforementioned.

And so I came back and did some research, turns out my stock rims has 67.1mm center diameter and start of +47mm. Is that bigger than normal?

Now I'm looking for some used aftermarket rims in fix for next summer... probably xv" or 16". Would all "universal" iv bolts rims fit? people unremarkably don't list the center diameter and offset when they sell.. =/ What happens if I use rims with less offset (let say +40, i think Civics use that).

Thanks.

Nov 2nd, 2008 9:02 pm

Jucius Maximus: Deal Expert; Aug xviii, 2005; 20858 posts; 5436 upvotes; Burlington-Hamilton

Nov 2nd, 2008 nine:02 pm

+47 mm is a fairly loftier offset, but y'all can discover aftermarket rims with higher offsets than that. My Mazda6 has a +60mm offset and I have never really seen an aftermarket alloy rim with that high of an showtime. The highest I've seen in aftermarket blend is +52 mm.

Non sure about the heart bore but yours is the same as mine. Some aftermarket rims accept a centre diameter of 71 mm, which ways you may need hubcentric rings, spacers ... etc ... these things all increase the chance that you lot could have various cycle issues. I would only use OEM fitment on my motorcar.

I would be wary of "universal" rims considering they would probably have the 71 mm centre bore. Adding hubcentric rings can increase the gamble of an imbalance, or rusting from the centre of the bicycle. If you got some aftermarket rim that also supported 4 10 114.3, the lug nut pattern would fit, but the kickoff may or may non be correct. Getting rims with different offsets could consequence in problems where the tire is rubbing against the wheel well. The closer y'all get to OEM fitment, the better. Some people use a fender-rolling machine to make the wheel wells bigger. Simply this sort of stuff makes me nervous. I would just take OEM fitment even if the wheels are non as snazzy.

- casual gastronomist -

Nov 3rd, 2008 12:30 pm

#iii

woodstock827 [OP]: Sr. Member; December 2, 2005; 946 posts; 11 upvotes; Markham

November third, 2008 12:xxx pm

Thanks. I was under the impression that 67 centre is big for a 4 bolted wheel.

I think the rims i've seen are usually +37 to +40 commencement. I'thousand guessing too little offset would make the rim striking the brake caliper? what else would be afflicted if information technology doesn't hit? Thanks.

Nov 3rd, 2008 2:xix pm

blibbertibs: Deal Aficionado; Dec 12, 2006; 1078 posts; 167 upvotes; Calgary

Nov 3rd, 2008 two:19 pm

the rim would simply hitting the caliper if the rim itself is too small. having a lower outset means your wheels will stick out of the fenders more, and there may some rubbing when you plough.

November 3rd, 2008 5:03 pm

GoiNGPoSTaL: Sr. Member; Aug three, 2006; 790 posts; 1 upvote

Nov 3rd, 2008 5:03 pm

Jucius Maximus wrote: ↑+47 mm is a fairly high offset, only you lot tin can detect aftermarket rims with higher offsets than that. My Mazda6 has a +60mm get-go and I have never actually seen an aftermarket alloy rim with that high of an beginning. The highest I've seen in aftermarket alloy is +52 mm.

Not sure about the center bore but yours is the same as mine. Some aftermarket rims have a heart bore of 71 mm, which means you may need hubcentric rings, spacers ... etc ... these things all increase the chance that you could take various bike issues. I would simply employ OEM fitment on my car.

I would be wary of "universal" rims because they would probably have the 71 mm centre diameter. Calculation hubcentric rings tin increase the hazard of an imbalance, or rusting from the centre of the bike. If you got some aftermarket rim that as well supported iv x 114.3, the lug nut pattern would fit, but the offset may or may not be correct. Getting rims with unlike offsets could result in problems where the tire is rubbing confronting the wheel well. The closer you get to OEM fitment, the ameliorate. Some people use a fender-rolling automobile to make the wheel wells bigger. Just this sort of stuff makes me nervous. I would but accept OEM fitment even if the wheels are not as snazzy.

You should inform car enthusiast's about your theories.

Nov tertiary, 2008 5:56 pm

Pete_Coach: Deal Expert; May 10, 2005; 36260 posts; 10484 upvotes; Ottawa

Nov 3rd, 2008 5:56 pm

Jucius Maximus wrote: ↑ Not sure near the centre diameter only yours is the same as mine. Some aftermarket rims accept a centre bore of 71 mm, which ways yous may need hubcentric rings, spacers ... etc ... these things all increase the chance that yous could have various cycle problems. I would simply apply OEM fitment on my machine.

I would be wary of "universal" rims considering they would probably have the 71 mm center bore. Adding hubcentric rings tin increase the chance of an imbalance, or rusting from the center of the wheel. If you lot got some aftermarket rim that also supported four ten 114.3, the lug nut pattern would fit, only the offset may or may non be correct. Getting rims with different offsets could outcome in problems where the tire is rubbing against the wheel well. The closer you get to OEM fitment, the better. Some people employ a fender-rolling machine to brand the bike wells bigger. Just this sort of stuff makes me nervous. I would just take OEM fitment even if the wheels are not as snazzy.

Hogwash.
The center bore of the rim ways nothing unless information technology is too pocket-size and that is unlikely on a "universal" rim. Regardless, the cycle is solidly held in place past the conical nuts or bolts, non the eye bore.
Any wheel, steel or aluminum or magnesium, tin can get stuck onto the bicycle hub considering the wheel hub is made of mild steel and may corrode because of its exposure to the elements. A bit of lubricant/grease on the mating surfaces volition prevent that.
"Universal rims" are but that, they volition work on 90% of the vehicles out there and should not pose a problem for the average car. Information technology is very piece of cake for a shop to tell even earlier they mount the tire. If you have a car that these universals won't fit, then you should know about it already, you will have bought a car with a performance suspension or bicycle package.
I am agreeing with GoiNGPoSTaL on this one.

Dec 19th, 2008 ix:28 pm

#seven

turbo_slug: Deal Addict; January thirteen, 2004; 1241 posts; 650 upvotes; Vancouver

December 19th, 2008 nine:28 pm

Pete_Coach wrote: ↑Hogwash.
The heart bore of the rim ways nada unless it is as well small and that is unlikely on a "universal" rim. Regardless, the wheel is solidly held in place by the conical basics or bolts, not the center bore.
Whatsoever bike, steel or aluminum or magnesium, tin get stuck onto the wheel hub because the wheel hub is fabricated of mild steel and may corrode because of its exposure to the elements. A bit of lubricant/grease on the mating surfaces will prevent that.
"Universal rims" are just that, they volition work on 90% of the vehicles out there and should not pose a trouble for the average car. It is very easy for a shop to tell fifty-fifty earlier they mountain the tire. If you have a car that these universals won't fit, and then you should know about it already, yous volition accept bought a car with a performance suspension or bike bundle.
I am agreeing with GoiNGPoSTaL on this i.

in that location are reasons why oem wheels have middle bores that match the wheel hub. almost people seem to think that the basics and cycle studs are what centers the rim, but that's not completely true. without hubcentric wheels, there'south a a expert chance the bicycle tin be installed offbalance. that'southward especially truthful if the lugs are torqued when the car is on the gound. an offbalance cycle can cause excess vibrations or even excess stress to be placed on the wheel studs.

IMO if one has the cash to purchase aftermarket wheels, but vanquish out the few extra dollars for hubcentric rings.

Dec 19th, 2008 10:02 pm

#viii

redac: Sr. Fellow member; Aug 25, 2005; 832 posts; 88 upvotes

Dec 19th, 2008 ten:02 pm

turbo_slug wrote: ↑there are reasons why oem wheels accept eye bores that match the wheel hub. well-nigh people seem to think that the basics and wheel studs are what centers the rim, simply that's not completely truthful. without hubcentric wheels, in that location's a a expert risk the wheel tin can exist installed offbalance. that's specially true if the lugs are torqued when the car is on the gound. an offbalance bike can cause excess vibrations or even backlog stress to be placed on the wheel studs.

IMO if i has the cash to purchase aftermarket wheels, merely vanquish out the few actress dollars for hubcentric rings.

Or get wheels that are a directly fit and don't demand them. If you are getting wheels with a smaller hub band, you can get them 'bored' out to what you need -- brand sure your calipers will clear and that they don't rub (cheque the offset)

Dec 19th, 2008 eleven:12 pm

LanceR04: Member; Nov 28, 2008; 279 posts; 17 upvotes; Toronto

Dec 19th, 2008 eleven:12 pm

hey ., how exercise you find the outset for each cars?? i have an 04 Lancer 0Z Rally... any help would be appreciated

December 20th, 2008 12:44 am

macnut: Bargain Fanatic; Oct 26, 2008; 6621 posts; 2331 upvotes; BC

Dec 20th, 2008 12:44 am

LanceR04 wrote: ↑hey ., how exercise you lot find the start for each cars?? i take an 04 Lancer 0Z Rally... whatever help would exist appreciated

see: http://www3.telus.cyberspace/nias/wheelsizes.pdf

In that location is likewise a column for centre bore size. I agree that there wouldn't exist much of an aftermarket cycle market if the centre bore size was critical. But by personal preference, I wouldn't go for wheels expressly designed to fit simply about anything.

and in response to the OP, y'all want to proceed the start close to O.Due east. to preserve optimal handling. Maybe not immediately noticeable, but there is going to be some bear on if yous go more than than, say 5, either side of the O.E. outset - yous don't desire to find out how it affects handling at the limit in the wrong circumstances.

Dec 20th, 2008 9:18 am